Bryce Canyon Lodge
The last remaining original lodge from the Grand Circle Tour era
Tourism potential for Bryce Canyon was known even before it was established as a national park. The Union Pacific Railroad (UP) and its subsidiary Utah Parks Company (UPC) wished to develop the area to add to its Grand Circle Tour which included Cedar Breaks National Monument, Zion National Park and the North Rim of the Grand Canyon.
A canyon is typically formed by the gradual erosion from flowing water. Bryce Canyon, however, was shaped by erosion from weather rather than flowing water, meaning it isn't technically a canyon. The park's prominent feature is its collection of natural bowl-like amphitheaters.
Preserving the Land
Joseph William (J.W.) Humphrey, a U.S. Forest Service employee, played a pivotal role in the establishment of Bryce Canyon as a national park. His first encounter with the canyon occurred in July 1915. Directed by Humphrey, photographs, a film, and articles showcased Bryce's splendor, which aided in obtaining funds for road improvements and the development of early trails.
Originally designated as a national monument by President Warren G. Harding in 1923, the area was managed by the U.S. Forest Service to preserve its "unusual scenic beauty, scientific interest, and importance." In 1924, Congress established Utah National Park, with the stipulation that all state and private land within its boundaries be owned by the United States. The name was changed to "Bryce Canyon National Park" in 1928. The conditions of the 1924 congressional bill were fulfilled later that year, officially establishing Bryce Canyon National Park on September 15, 1928.
In 1930, the Zion-Mt. Carmel tunnel was completed. This effectively tied Bryce, Zion, Cedar Breaks and the North Rim of the Grand Canyon together. Trains would transport passengers to Cedar City. Buses would leave Cedar City and transport tourists among the four parks.
Why is it Called Bryce Canyon?
The Utah Legislature originally proposed the name "Temple of the Gods National Monument" in March 1919 when it requested Congress to "set aside for the use and enjoyment of the people a suitable area embracing ‘Bryce's Canyon’”.
That obviously didn’t go anywhere, and the area was known locally as ‘Bryce’s Canyon’ which was named for Ebenezer Bryce (1830 - 1913), a skilled carpenter who was sent to the area in the 1870s by the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-Day Saints to help aid Mormon settlers. He built a road to the plateau to access timber and water, and his activities in the area led to the use of his name in association with the canyon. Ebenezer Bryce reportedly described his canyon as a "hell of a place to lose a cow".
Prior to the Building of the Lodge
By 1919, tourists from Salt Lake City were visiting Bryce Canyon. Reuben (Ruby) and Minnie Syrett erected tents and supplied meals for overnight guests near Sunset Point. In 1920 the Syretts constructed Tourist’s Rest a 30 by 71-foot lodge, with eight or ten nearby cabins and an open-air dance floor. In 1923, the Union Pacific Railroad bought the Tourist’s Rest land, buildings and water rights from the Syretts in order to begin the process of building a UP lodge. Ruby and Minnie subsequently established Ruby’s Inn just outside the park which still exists (in a modern form) today.
Bryce Canyon Lodge
The UP started accumulating stone and logs from nearby sites for the construction of a lodge in 1923 even before plans had been drawn up. The architect that designed the other three Grand Circle Tour lodges, Gilbert Stanley Underwood designed the Bryce Canyon Lodge as a two-story stone and exposed frame structure. It holds the distinction of being the only original Utah Parks Company Underwood-designed lodge as both original Zion and Grand Canyon Lodges burned down and the Cedar Breaks Lodge was dismantled.
Rather than designing the entire complex at one time Underwood designed and re-designed it over a period of several years as visitation increased and the Utah Parks Company saw the need for expanded development.
The lodge's roof is distinguished by its unique shingling pattern, a design by Underwood, where the lower edges of the horizontal shingle courses create irregular, undulating, wave-like patterns. This effect gives the illusion that the roof is warped or moving. The distinctive shingling, found on both the original cabins and the main lodge buildings, has been preserved in each re-roofing, maintaining the original pattern to honor the craftsmanship of the initial builders and Underwood's architectural vision.
Of the sixty cabins built between 1924 and 1929, the lodge complex now contains only fifteen surviving deluxe cabins. The Sunset Motel and Sunrise Motel were added to the site in 1985, replacing the old economy cabins.
In addition to the lodge, there are other structures in Bryce Canyon from the Utah Parks Company era that fit into the “parkitecture” genre, including the general store, which was originally the cafeteria, some historic cabins and the original park headquarters and visitor center located near the general store.
How to Visit
Bryce Canyon Lodge is currently operated by Aramark, a park-management company contracted by the National Park Service. It is difficult to get reservations so advance planning is necessary.
Ruby’s Inn is located just outside the park boundary. It’s a Best Western hotel and an additional Best Western property is located across the street to help accommodate the large number of visitors. The original Ruby’s Inn burned down in 1984 but was rebuilt and expanded. There are many vintage photos of Ruby’s Inn through the years on the walls of the public areas. Today, in addition to a motel and campground, they have stores, restaurants, and tours.
I’ve stayed in the motel rooms of the Lodge and at Ruby’s Inn. It’s very nice to be at the Lodge because you are just steps from the rim. However, Ruby’s Inn isn’t far away. It’s easier to get reservations, the rooms are less expensive than the Lodge and breakfast is included.
Next Time
Next time, we will complete the Grand Loop Tour by taking a look at the Grand Canyon Lodge at the North Rim of the Grand Canyon. The North Rim is not as visited as the South Rim. Since it is about 1000 ft higher in elevation, the North Rim is only open for part of the year due to weather. The lodge is located right on the rim and is a must-see when visiting the North Rim.
What a wonderful piece your wrote, Jan. Like Thoreau, I believe that nature is good for all living things and nature doesn't just include forests, it's all the things you historically highlight in that excellent piece. Thank you for that.
What a coincidence, Jan! The topic of our latest post too:
https://marcoandsabrina.substack.com/p/once-more-into-the-wilds-of-utah